When British fur trader James Douglas, first set his eyes on Victoria in 1842, he referred to it as “a perfect Eden,” and wrote that “one might be pardoned for supposing it had dropped from the clouds.”
Today, few visitors to this delightful city with a moderate climate, located on Vancouver Island, would disagree with Douglas’s apt description. The city, which is the capital of British Columbia, is one where the Pacific Ocean has carved bays and inlets alongside of which elegant hotels and meandering walkways have been erected.
Victoria, which Douglas founded, is built around the serene waters of the Inner Harbour, where one can walk along the central causeway and look out to see sailboats, classic yachts, fishing boats, ferries, and others pass in and of the harbour. On my visit, the sight of a lone kayak meandering through Inner Harbour stirred up feelings calmness and relaxation. Visitors are also encouraged to explore the city by taking one of the Victoria Harbour Ferries, which dock in Inner Harbour.
Victoria’s landmark hotel, which was commissioned by the Canadian Pacific Railway, is the ivied Empress Hotel, offering luxurious accommodations. The hotel, where afternoon teas is still a major tradition, was opened in 1908. For those not staying at the Empress, it is worth walking inside it to get a sense of its opulence, grandeur, and ‘Olde English’ charm. Other hotels along Inner Harbour, such as the Delta Hotel where this traveler stayed, offer visitors quality accommodations with views of the harbour.
In front of the Empress Hotel one will notice the famous street lamps that first appeared in 1913, with seasonal colourful hanging flower baskets. It is worth taking a stroll along the houseboats of Fisherman’s Wharf in Inner Harbour, where the overly well-fed seals actually jump out of the water in anticipation of their next supper.
Near the Empress Hotel, is another centerpiece attraction of Victoria, the provincial legislature. This superb structure was designed by Francis Rattenbury, a master architect of the late nineteenth century, who was also the architect for the Empress Hotel. The wrought-iron gate at the main entrance to the legislature wad brought from England, but most of the materials were quarried or mined in British Columbia. A large bronze statute of Queen Victoria, the city’s namesake, is located in front of the legislature. When the outline of the legislature is lit up at night, the Harbour takes on a majestic feel.
Down town Victoria is dotted with quaint one of a kind stores, painted in a variety of colours. Visitors will also notice the hundreds of graceful Victorian era heritage homes in the city, which give it a unique atmosphere.
The heart and soul of Victoria is its expansive ocean vistas that frame all quarters of the city, and have made it a retirement haven for an increasing number of Canadians. On clear days, the snow capped Olympic Mountains in Washington can be seen in the distance. The city offers many opportunities for those who want to engage in water recreation- be it sailing, fishing, or going on Orcha whale-watching journeys.
For those with a car, it is recommended to take a drive a little outside the city to discover secluded coves and beaches. This traveler happened upon French beach, about a half hours drive north of the city. Walking aimlessly down this gorgeous beach to the rhythmic sounds of the ocean’s waves was one of the most authentic and memorable moments of the trip.
Another personal favourite was a visit to Victoria’s restored Fisgard Lighthouse, the oldest lighthouse on British Columbia’s coast, first operated in 1859. But , the best sight this visitor came upon is one that is not recorded in any travel book. Near the lighthouse there is a natural bird sanctuary where hundreds of mallards and white swans congregate. A retired islander named “Mary” has been coming to this spot for over ten years at 12 noon every day to feed these birds, (whom she can identify one by one) as amateur and professional photographers try to capture this remarkable sight.
It is all part of the magic of Victoria.